On the Richmond Burrito Trail: Hot, saucy and a little bit of everything at Taqueria Doña Maria

It was a Thursday. The sky was very blue. We parked under an Extra Space Storage sign, which felt like a comment on something. A black Range Rover was parked out front. We decided it was none of our business.

Inside, the papel picado was up for Día de Muertos; a sugar skull grinned at us. Chalkboard menus up top. A pastry case full of donuts. A guy in a blue shirt was leaning on the counter, carefully ladling out salsa from the bar.

And the menu can do a lot. Burritos. Tacos. Quesabirria. Donuts. Vietnamese coffee. Bánh mì. Bánh mì! In El Sobrante! Next to the donuts! We stood there doing the math and the math did not add up and we loved it. Did you know El Sobrante means...

We did not ask questions. We ordered a Super Chicken Burrito; it was only $14.81

We drove it back down out of El Sob.

Back at Grandview HQ, we peeled back the foil, and it was hot. Really, really hot. Hot like it had somewhere to be. We had to wait. We do not like to wait.

It's long and thin. A lot of rice. It weighed in at 648 grams, which is respectable and not showy. The chicken is not grilled. It's seasoned and saucy, stewed soft, more braise than char. They offer three types of beans Rice. Sour cream.

They said guacamole. We tasted avocado. We have thoughts. We are keeping them to ourselves.

Then the salsas, and this is where everything speeds up.

The Salsa Verde is a tomatillo green with dark flecks of char floating in it like little burnt secrets. The card says medium. The card is being modest. Hot. Really good. We went back for more. We went back again. Sip. It is not glamorous, these blind tastings. Splash on the burrito.

The Avocado Salsa is a whole other personality. Emulsified, chunky, full of onions and fresh cilantro. Bright. Cool. Not spicy at all.

Then two watery reds. They look identical. Same color, same cup, same innocent face. Salsa Tía Rox is flavorful but tame, basically seasoned tomato juice, nice enough. Salsa Borracha waits until you’ve decided it’s harmless and then hits you with a hardy wave of dried peppers. We did not see it coming. Dip a pinky before you pour. That goes for most things.

The Grandview Independent has been embarking on a culinary adventure to explore every taqueria, food truck, and restaurant in Richmond. This initiative, dubbed the “Richmond Burrito Trail,” aims to showcase our city’s diverse and delectable burritos.

Know a burrito we haven’t eaten yet? Tell us where to go next. We’re hungry, and we’ll drive.